Remember, wave movement are caused by energy, not water. The size of the wave depends on the fetch (span of open water), speed of wind, and the length of time that the wind blows.
Thursday, March 4, 2010
DISSECTING A WAVE
The crest is the highest point of a wave. The trough is the lowest. You can remember this because C comes before T in the alphabet, so it is hence higher up. The wave height is the vertical distance between any crest and succeeding trough, and the wavelength is the horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs. This is easy to remember because height is always vertical, so length must be horizontal. The still water level is what level the water would be without waves. The period is the time it takes two successive crests to pass a fixed point.
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