Crest; highest point
Trough; lowest point
Wave height; (amplitude) vertical distance between crest and trough
Wavelength; horizontal distance between crest and another crest
Still water level; water level if flat
Period; time it takes successive crests to pass a fixed point (typically 6-16 seconds)
Waves are a movements of energy NOT water
That's why if you look at a bottle in the water in just bobs instead of moves distance. Currents are what moves things horizontally in the water.
Size of waves depend on:
1)wind speeds
2)fetch; span of open water
3)length of time wind is blowing for
No comments:
Post a Comment